Thessaloniki to Athens: A Road Trip Through Northern & Central Greece

The route from Athens to Thessaloniki is one of the most popular ways to travel through mainland Greece.

It connects the eastern side of the country — and when I say east, I always mean the mainland — linking Athens with Thessaly, Macedonia, and Thrace.

Most people just pass through.

But if you take your time, this route can turn into something completely different.

This is exactly what we did.

A Birthday, a Plan, and a Different Greece
We had a week.

It was Jill’s birthday, and her wish was simple:
to spend it in Delphi.

Gloria was up for anything.

And me — I wanted to show them the Greece I always talk about.

They had already seen Athens and the islands.
This time, it was about the mainland.

And of course… wine.

Thessaloniki waterfront with the White Tower on a sunny day
Kyr Yianni winery
the Gerovassiliou winery cellar
Golden larnax from the Royal Tombs of Vergina, attributed to Philip II of Macedon, displayed in the museum at Aigai

Northern Greece: Where Wine Meets Landscape

We flew JFK → Athens → Thessaloniki and went straight to:

📍 Ktima Biblia Chora

One of the most established wineries in Greece.

Everything there reflects intention:

  • the vineyards
  • the architecture
  • the way the space blends into the land

You can feel the vision behind it.

That same philosophy followed us the next day.

We stopped in Veroia — a place most people (including me, until now) just pass through.

We didn’t have time to explore it properly, but we had an amazing lunch…
and of course, we tried revani, one of the most famous desserts of Northern Greece — and Veroia is known for doing it right.

(We are definitely going back.)

From there, we continued to:

📍 Kyr-Yianni Winery

Founded by Yiannis Boutaris — one of the most unconventional and forward-thinking figures in modern Greece.

His vision, as Greeks would say, was 100 years ahead of his time.

Not only in wine — but also in politics, and especially in his relationship with Thessaloniki.

Here, everything revolves around Xinomavro — the king of Macedonian vineyards.

The drive there felt like something out of a fairytale:
vineyards everywhere, soft hills, endless views.

We were tired — but the landscape erased it completely.

A Different Kind of City: Thessaloniki

We returned to Thessaloniki for the night.

We didn’t fully explore the city — and that was intentional.

I prefer not to explore a place at all, if I can’t give it the time it deserves.

So we just had a taste.

And that was enough for them to feel something important:

“χαλαρά” — halara

A word Greeks use all the time.
It means:

  • relaxed
  • unhurried
  • everything has its time

That’s Thessaloniki.

Greek vineyards
Columns of the Temple of Apollo at Delphi with mountain landscape in central Greece
View of Arachova from the stone bridge with traditional houses on Mount Parnassus
People gathering on Easter Sunday in Arachova roasting lambs on spits outdoors

From the Sea to the Mountain

The next morning, we left the city — but not before one more stop:

📍 Gerovassiliou Winery

Another example of the vision behind Greek wine.

Evangelos Gerovassiliou is the man who brought back Malagousia — a grape that was almost lost.

The winery feels like an open-air museum:

  • art everywhere
  • a unique corkscrew museum inside
  • a space that blends culture and wine

From there, the girls saw Mount Olympus in the distance…

…and we had to stop.

📍 Litochoro

A small village at the foot of the mountain, where many climbers begin their journey.

We had an amazing lunch, took a breath, and continued south.

Polydroso: The Side of Greece You Don’t Expect

We drove toward Polydroso, on the northern side of Mount Parnassus.

This area is very different from Northern Greece.

Fewer wineries, less development — but something else:

authenticity

We found a small gem:

📍 Argyriou Winery

and stayed at a boutique guesthouse connected to it — a restored stone family home, turned into a warm, cozy space.

The kind of place you don’t just visit — you remember.

The owners took care of everything.

They even helped us surprise Jill with a birthday cake after the wine tasting.

Delphi: The Energy of the Center of the World

The next day — Jill’s birthday — we drove to:

📍 Delphi

The road wasn’t easy.

Mountain driving in Greece requires patience and focus — especially when you’re trying to avoid driving after sunset (which, in our case… we couldn’t completely avoid).

But Delphi…

Delphi is different.

I cannot stress enough how calm the energy of this place is.

You don’t just see it — you feel it.

And you understand immediately why the ancient Greeks believed this was the center of the world.

Unfortunately, our guide canceled last minute (it was Good Friday, and everything closed early), so we didn’t experience the site and museum the way we should have.

We are definitely going back.

But even like that — the energy, the view, the silence — it stayed with us.

Arachova & Easter in the Mountains

From there, we continued to:

📍 Arachova

A small mountain town that Greeks often call the “winter Mykonos.”

I didn’t expect it to be so crowded during Easter…
but I quickly understood why.

Easter in Greece — especially in villages — is something special.

  • People gathering outside
  • Lambs roasting together
  • Music, food, community

It’s not something you watch.
It’s something you feel part of.

(Also — parking was a complete challenge
Narrow streets, cars everywhere… one of those moments where you just hope you make it through.)

Back to Athens

We returned to Athens on Easter Sunday.

As expected, the city felt almost empty — a ghost city.

We had dinner, enjoyed the view of the Acropolis one last time, and the next day we flew back to New York.

What This Trip Really Showed

This wasn’t just a road trip.

The girls experienced:

  • The power of mountain landscapes
  • The depth of ancient Greek history
  • The vision behind modern Greek winemaking
  • The contrast between touristy and authentic villages
  • The full spectrum of Greek food culture

From large, established wineries…
to small, local producers doing something beautiful with very few resources.

And most importantly:

They saw the Greece I always talk about.

Categories:

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *